1/2/09
Hey there all!
Happy New Year! I officially survived my first Turkmen New Year and I’ve got to say, holy crap was it cool! To start the new year’s eve my family’s cow decided to go into labour (I didn’t even know it was pregnant) and at around 7:30 we had a brand new baby cow! It is so cute (now that it is all cleaned off and what not) about the size of a lab dog and just adorable. It was really cool that it was born on new years eve because this year is the year of the cow. Pretty cool!
After we all watched the new baby calf get cleaned off by it’s mother we got dressed up all fancylike and had an amazing dinner. There was seriously so much food! I loved it. We had amazing roasted chiken and a ton of finger food all evening which included rasians, a ton of salads, peanuts, walnuts, kolbasa, cheese, tons of candy, and two cakes; one regular and one ice cream. It was glorious, the best food I have had since I came here, I seriously ate a ton (much to the delight of my host mother). I spent the evening watching a mixture of russian and turkmen tv with my mother and chatting with her and the random guests who would come and go. All the guests just stopped by to sample our food and wish us a Gutly taze Yyl (Happy New year).
Then at midnight my host mother had a bit of a surprise for me, she and my father had bought me champaign because they knew that Americans drink champaign for New Years. So that was really awesome, what’s even cooler about it though is that my mother had a glass too (much to the disgust of my host sister). It was so awesome because most turkmen women do not drink ever and the fact that
a) she cared enough to get me champaign and allowed me to drink it in her home and
b) she actually drank with me!
That was seriosuly amazing. I couldn’t believe it. Then once new year struck she gave me a hug and wished me a very gutly taze yyl before I headed off to bed (the whole talking in turkmen thing is very exhausting).
The next day we had another amazing meal of left overs. My father and host brother also cooked an amazing lunch for us over the turkmen version of a grill. It reminded me of steak and it was oh so delicious. I’m not really sure what kind of meat it was, but again amazingly delicious. It again reminded me of grilled steaks. Overall, the whole ordeal was just a ton of delicious food. I am slightly sad that I won’t have that deliciousness of food in a long time, but it was good. So yeah, my New Year consisted of a new baby calf and a ton of delicious food. It was an awesome way to kick off the new year! I hope all is well back home with 2009! Happy ney year everyone!
12/27/08 Answers to 21 “Burning Questions”
Hello all! So I just got this little piece of mail from one Mrs. Cathy Warner and her family asking me 21 burning questions that they had. Seeing as how they were some good questions I decided it would be best to answer them here. I did my best to answer them to my knowledge, so here you go!
1) How often do you get mail?
Well, during training we could only get mail when we saw the Peace Corps staff so that meant I had the opportunity to get mail probably every week or every other week. Whether or not I got mail was a different question, I would say during training I would receive things probably every 2 weeks. One week I would get nothing and then the next I would get tons of things: letters and packages.
Now that I am at permanent site I don’t have to wait to see PC Staff to get my mail, I just have to go into the office during the week and pick it up (one of the perks to living so close to Ashgabat). I have been in permanent site for 2 weeks now and have gone to the office probably 4 times to work (for my school), get my mail, and shower (yes shower… the office actually has a real shower… it’s amazing… let’s not talk about how often I shower though… I smell frequently). Whether or not I have mail is a different question, but last week I was in twice and received 3 packages and 4 letters (all of the T-16s I saw there were totally jealous by the way).
2) Do you have access to an ATM or a way for us to send you money?
First off, you don’t need to send me money, honestly. Second, an ATM Machine… that’s really funny… Turkmenistan is a total cash economy. No ATMs and no credit cards. All of the money I have is currently locked in a safe that is locked in my suitcase (which is locked in my room), dollars and manat. The fact that it is a cash economy is really annoying actually because if you are going shopping somewhere you have to carry a huge wad of bills (which is just not safe). While there are no ATMs here I can receive money via Western Union, we have those in Ashgabat.
3) How much is a goat or a camel?
Ok first off I want you to know that my family thought I was nuts when I asked them this question. They thought the crazy American was going to run off and buy a goat or a camel. Before they told me the kept asking me why I wanted to buy a camel and unfortunately, I don’t know the Turkmen word for “hypothetical” yet. It was a very humorous conversation. Anyways. Apparently a camel would cost about 5 million manat, or roughly $500, and a goat would cost about 1 million manat, or $100.
4) If you wanted to go on an adventure/vacation do you have the ability to do that or will that always be in the group? Will they ever let you leave the country for a trip like that? Would you (personally) go to Iran?
Wow, first off Cathy, that’s like at least 4 questions. Second, yes I can take vacations and adventures, I am not being held captive within Turkmenistan by the US Government. I am assuming though that you mean during training could I travel, if that is the case, then the answer is no. During training I was not allowed to leave site by myself for the first 4 weeks of training. This was because we didn’t have the language skills to go off on our own and we didn’t really know where we were going anyway. After the first 4 weeks we were allowed to travel to Ashgabat by ourselves, but only on the weekend and we couldn’t spend the night away from our host family. Now that training is over and I am at site I am allowed to go to various places on my own for the day, but I am not allowed to spend the night anywhere for the first three months. This is strictly for integration purposes as Peace Corps wants us to integrate with our communities so we can gain the trust of our community and can develop a secondary community development project. This is a worldwide policy and it’s one I totally agree with (even though there are days that I just want to get out of here) because integration is essential for effective sustainable community development. I did just learn though, that I could spend the night away from my village if my family takes me somewhere. This past weekend my family and I went to a town called Arcebil and spent the night there. That was an awesome place in the mountains that border Iran.
After the first 3 months of service I am given 2 days of vacation per month that I am a volunteer starting from my swearing in date. These days can be saved for a long vacation in or outside of the country. Thus over the course of the 2 years I will have about 48 days of vacation. I personally know that my first vacation will be to go visit a certain “Posh Corps” volunteer from Bulgaria in Istanbul (love you, Katie). Other than that, I hope to also go to Bulgaria to see Katie in action as a PCV (we’ll work on getting you to T-Stan, Katie), Thailand, India, and other parts of Turkmenistan; there are some really cool places to see here.
Would I personally go to Iran? Good question. As a PCV I don’t think I am allowed to go to Iran due to the unsteady relationship we have with the Iranian government. If however, that was the clear up at all and we were suddenly on good terms with Iran (and it was deemed a safe country to visit), yes I would consider going there. I am told it is a beautiful country, much like Turkmenistan, but with bigger mountains. I would also be interested in learning about a more strict Muslim culture (as Turkmenistan isn’t a very strict Muslim culture).
5) Do you have pictures of the market?
I am assuming by the market you mean Tarkuchka. No, but next time I go I will take some pictures for you, I know your love of bazaars.
6) Is the underground cave difficult to get to?
No, it’s not that difficult at all. It’s probably about 45 mins outside of the town I did my training in. If you by chance come to T-stan, Cathy, I’ll be sure to take you there. It was a really sweet experience. I’m not sure how expensive it is for foreigners (it was a mandatory fun peace corps outing so they fitted the bill), but it can’t be too bad.
7) When you are mountain climbing do you ever have to worry about snakes or spiders? What about camel spiders?
Yes. Yes. And Yes. Fortunately, the one time I went mountain climbing it was in the fall and most of those critters were hibernating so I didn’t see any. When I go in the spring and summer though, I will need to be wary of snakes, spiders, camel spiders, and scorpions. Most of which are very poisonous (T-Stan has cobras). Don’t worry, Mom, I know how to look out for them with a big walking stick, I’ll also be wearing jeans and my hiking boots. Peace Corps also gave us a training session devoted to snakes and spiders, I’ll be ok, I promise.
8) Do you have rickshaws or auto-rickshaws in Turkmenistan? What are the main modes of transportation? Any donkey carts?
Unfortunately, Turkmenistan has none of these transportation options. The closest thing we have to a rickshaw is a large cart used to haul heavy objects around in large bazaars. I have only seen them in Tarkuchka and they were only used to haul things like large carpets. No people were ridding them. I haven’t seen any donkey carts, but I wouldn’t doubt that we have them somewhere, again not for people.
9) Do you have a Starbucks?
What is this “Starbucks” you speak of? Is it some new aged phenomenon? Much to the disappointment of nearly every PCV in Turkmenistan (with the exception of me because I don’t drink coffee) Starbucks is nowhere to be seen in Turkmenistan. Not even in Ashgabat. Actually, Ashgabat isn’t that hip of a city; there are a lot of cool buildings and stuff, but not a lot of swank places like starbucks (or any I should say). To my surprise there isn’t even a McDonalds here, and those things are everywhere! Anyways back to coffee, I am told by other PCVs that there isn’t any real coffee in Turkmenistan. It’s all apparently really horrible tasting. If there was a Starbucks here I am pretty sure it would only be PCVs that would keep it in business.
10) Do you have “Massage,” “Touch Therapy,” or the likes in Turkmenistan? Is it taboo for women? Do you have bathhouses like in Turkey or Hungry?
Are you referring to Thailand like massages? If so, I don’t think so. In fact I’m not sure there are places for real massages, I’ll look into that. Prostitution is a huge problem here. Many married men here go to prostitutes on a regular basis, the women know about it, but it’s a patriarchal society so not much women can do about it. Anyways, prostitutes are usually found in the discos and the going rate is roughly 30,000 manat or probably $3. Every woman who is not Turkmen is considered a prostitute and I have been asked “How Much?” on the street before. It’s really sad.
As for Turkish baths! Funny you should mention that, I was actually just talking about that today before I got your letter! Yes, parts of Turkmenistan do have Turkish/Hungarian/Japanese public baths. I am told you can find them only in heavy liberal Russian areas; the one region I know that has one is Lebop. As the other PCV I was talking with said, “If your down with getting naked with a bunch of people, taking a bath with them, and smelling like shit then go to Lebop. It’s all the rage there!”
11) Do they have ice cream?
Yes they have ice cream. It’s not as good as Mr. Doozie’s, but good nonetheless.
12) What is the education system like? Is there higher ed? Are there vocational schools?
Ah yes the education system! Glad you asked, I probably should write a blog about this. Anyways, the education system is actually 1-10th grade. There is kindergarten, but it is not mandatory for all students (although I think that is changing). All students are required to attend school until 10th form, or until they are 16. After that there are a few options. They can either:
a) Start work with some sort of trade. Dressmaking or carpet making for girls and usually being a taxi driver for guys or beginning their mandatory 2-year army service. There are no trade schools for thinks like welding and carpentry (for one there’s not a lot of furniture) and people learn these skills from their parents.
b) Continue their education at a university or institute. University is 5 years and institute is just 2. I think you learn the same basic thing at Institute, but obviously more at University.
In regards to higher education technically anyone with the right amount of money can go to University or Institute regardless of your gender. All of the women friends I have met are highly educated women and the majority of them went to University. I think women attending university is a new phenomenon since the mid 90s. Mayagozel told me that she was the first girl from her village to go to University and when she went it was very taboo. Her village ostracized her for going at first, but now she has pioneered the way for other women in her village to go to University. As I said though, higher ed is extremely expensive here and people have to pay a lot of bribes just to get into a program. I’m not sure of how much, but I have a few younger friends (18-20) who desperately want to go to university, but cannot afford the bribe money and tuition. There are some “scholarships” available, but I think those again go to people with money. So higher ed, yes it exists, yes women can attend, but it is extremely expensive.
13) For school supplies, would it be easier to get you money to go purchase things? Are there issues with accessibility to resources? Can you actually go out and purchase a textbook or are they all “too expensive” or just not available? Is it legal to teach from a non-governmental textbook?
Glad you asked this question (or series of questions). School supplies, yes they are available here. It just depends on where you go, you can find cheap stuff in the bazaars and better stuff in this cool Turkish shopping center called Yimposh. For the most part when I need things I can go and purchase them there. In regards to sending things though, that becomes a little tricky. Not because I can’t receive them, but with the goals of Peace Corps in general. The main goal for us here is to create something that is sustainable, something that will still stand after we leave. If my school relies on me to be like their own little cash cow who gives them everything after I leave they won’t have anything. That’s not really sustainable. What I hope to do is use the limited resources that they have here to teach the teachers new methods of teaching. That way, they will be able to continue that work after I leave. Peace Corps calls that “skills transference” and “sustainability.” Also, I know an American agency that will send resources about 20 pounds of books and resources to my school every month that I am here as a PCV. My school is already excited about this program because they are really interested in having an English resource room.
Textbooks. Well, the government issued textbooks are crap. Unfortunately for the teachers there aren’t other textbooks available. As a part of Peace Corps though, I have a ton of different textbooks that are actually usable, we have a whole library on it in our office. We have a lot of resources and training on teaching and one goal of the TEFL program is to transfer our skills to our Turkmen Counterparts. The tricky part is using the new books in actual school lessons without the government finding out. I have heard that some schools have principals who are very liberal and will let PCVs just throw out the issued textbooks and use the PC books. Many principals and teachers though do not want to challenge the authority of the government and use only the state issued books. Making the PCVs job harder. If by chance you can convince one teacher that the state books are horrible and you have better books then in order to use the new books you have to lie about your lesson plans. All of the teachers must have their lesson plans approved by the assistant principal everyday, if you are being a rouge English teacher you would lie about what you are going to teach. Show them a state approved plan and teach something else. If, as a PCV, you have no such luck finding a rouge English teacher you can have an English club where you can teach the students from whatever book you so desire.
14) Is it ok for women to wear jewelry? What kinds of jewelry are ok? Earrings? Necklace? Are pearls ok?
Jewelry is totally ok in Turkmen culture! Many women wear really fancy jewelry to parties and things. They have beautiful silver and gold earrings, rings, necklaces, and bracelets. As for pearls, I haven’t seen them, but I would think they would be ok to wear here.
15) Can women own things?
I think the answer to this question is yes. At least in Ashgabat and bigger cities they can because many women own apartments there. Many foreigners and a few Turkmen women do, but I think most Turkmen women do not. I think this has to do with the high value marriage has in this culture, most women are married (either for love or arrangement) and thus their husbands own all of the property and camels.
16) What kinds of public transportation exist? Are bikes safe?
From my travel experience, public transportation is always one of the best things about traveling; it’s always an adventure! Turkmenistan has the usual public transportation: taxis, buses, and trains. It also has this really fun form or public transportation known only to Turkmenistan called a Marshrutka (also a really fun word to say). I’ll tell you about my experiences with all of these forms of transportation (minus the train because I haven’t taken a train anywhere yet).
Taking a taxi is always an adventure. First off the taxi is the most expensive form of transportation. For example the other day I took a taxi from one end of Ashgabat to the other end and it cost me 10,000 manat (roughly a dollar). Just about any car on the road is considered a taxi because they are not labeled at all. To hail a taxi you basically stand on the side of the road and hold your arm out next to your side. If the driver stops then he is a taxi and you must negotiate a price with him. They usually try to overcharge foreigners and it is a good idea to make a prearranged price. If you don’t then you will end up paying a ton when you reach your designation. Taxis can also be a bit intimidating and scary if you are traveling by yourself (if you are a woman at least) especially for a foreigner. If you are traveling by yourself the taxi driver will try to talk to you and if you’re a woman hit on you, ask you “how much?” as if you’re a prostitute, and on some occasions try to feel you up (this hasn’t happened to me, but I have heard many female volunteers say they have had this happen). So I try to avoid taking taxis if I can help it and if I have to take a taxi I go with someone (older women are the best taxi buddies because they will hit the driver if he tries something).
Public busses are like public busses in the US: cheap, overcrowded, and slow because they make a lot of stops. I only take busses in the city because it is super cheap (1,000 manat or like 10 cents).
A Marshrutka is basically a 15-passenger van and takes you from one town/city to another (usually Ashgabat). The Marshrutka is fun because the Turkmen found a way to cram 15 people into a standard sized van by having a really weird seating arrangement. There are seats that are sideways, backwards, and forward and you are literally sitting on top of the person next to you. There are also no seatbelts in Turkmenistan and the driving is insane. Seriously, I pray every time I go somewhere that I don’t die in a horrible marshrutka crash. The drivers weave in and out of the “lanes” (the lines are there, but they are just that… lines… nobody follows them). So basically, because there are no seatbelts and the drivers are insane you get thrown all over the place in a marshrutka. Just the other day I was in one and one woman was sitting in a backwards chair and she completely fell out of her seat when the driver came to a sudden stop. I laughed to myself once I found out she was ok, I couldn’t help it; it was funny (she laughed too)! Marshrutkas are also fun because a lot of times people will talk to me (being the funny looking American and all) and I get to practice my Turkmen a lot of times. Overall, my transportation method of choice is the marshrutka.
As for bikes. Yes they exist, but not many people ride them and the roads are terrible for the bikes they have (if you had a mt. bike it would be great… I wish I had mine here). Also because so few people ride them and the roads are not very safe if you’re in a car, you have to be extra careful on a bike. You might get taken out by a raging marshrutka, not a pleasant way to go.
17) Access to English language via news, magazines, ect. And internet access.
Ah yes, the availability of English… Well, actually we can apparently get BBC news here if I was to ever watch my family’s TV and actually control the remote. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to do that. As for Turkmen News, it does come in English like 2 or 3 times a day because the government would like everyone to know 3 languages (Turkmen, Russian, and English). Unfortunately, the Turkmen News is basically all about what the President did that day… “The president ate breakfast, then went to a factory opening.” Stuff like that. There aren’t any English magazines that I have seen, but I haven’t really looked. As for English books they are nonexistent here.
The internet is monitored, I think, at the public Internet Cafés. I don’t really use those though because they cost money. Granted they only cost, like 3 cents/hour, but I would much rather use the Internet at the Peace Corps Office for free. Also if I use the PCO then the only government monitoring being done is by my own government because it’s on a US Gov network.
18) Is there a library where you are at or one at your school? Do you have access to English reading material? Is there a market for something like that?
Our school has a very small library of Turkmen books and textbooks. There is also a Turkmen library in the neighboring town. As for English reading material, there really isn’t one available to Turkmen, but there is one in the PC Office. Every PCV usually brings some books with them to their site and most get left behind when people go home. So we have our own little English library in the PCV Lounge in the Office. There you can find all kinds of books that you can take and bring back at your leisure.
19) What is the school like? What subjects are taught? How long is the school day? Is there corporal punishment? Any art, music, gym, science experiments? Do the standards and expectations for subject/grade level seem equivalent to the US standards?
Wow lots to cover there. First off the school is very different from US Schools, but the general idea is the same. The subjects that I have seen include English, Russian, Turkmen, math, science, and history. Seeing as how students only go to school until they are 16, the general expectation is a bit more for their grade levels. My 9th grade sister for example is taking physics, a class that would probably be offered during senior classes However; the workload doesn’t appear to be very much. I never see my sister study and she is at the top of her class. So no I wouldn’t say they meet US standards. As for art, gym, and science experiments I am going to say they are not standard at school. There are some schools that offer gym, the school at my training site had gym, but my current school does not. Music is only taught in cities I think; I have seen school kids with duitars in Ashgabat on their way to school. As for “corporal punishment,” no there isn’t corporal punishment here. The teachers do however pull the kids ears or hit them if the kids aren’t behaving. That’s only with the younger kids though, not the older. It’s a real unfortunate technique of classroom management.
20) When you are teaching English, how do you do it? Is it spoken, written, or both? Do you tie it to their culture? How do they train you to do it? Do you agree with their expectations for your teaching methods?
Ah teaching! Yay! This is one area where I get to have a bit of freedom in my technique. My main goal is to get the kids to learn to speak, understand, read, and write in English. I haven’t had too many opportunities to teach just yet, but when I do I do it through a combination of speaking and writing. I will usually talk only in English to get the kids used to hearing what English sounds like and how they should say things (that and my Turkmen isn’t that great). If I am explaining a grammar topic I will use Turkmen though so they can understand. Then after I have given the lesson presentation we will play some sort of a game aimed at the goals of understanding English, reading, writing, and speaking. We will play hangman, for example, if we have new vocabulary words that the kids need practice spelling. During training we were introduced with a lot of grammar games that the kids love because they are learning things while playing at the same time.
We also incorporate team teaching into teaching methods as we have Turkmen counterparts. This week for example is English week at my school and my counterpart and I are teaching a demonstrative lesson. Together we prepared a drama, taught the children how to sing Jingle Bells, I will talk about American New Year, and we will also play a grammar game. My counterpart and I lesson planned all week and will be presenting this lesson on Wednesday.
21) Do you have an in country medical staff member? Is it a PA? If you were to get a little sick where would they send you?
Yes! I do have in country medical care. Peace Corps has their own MD for us here, her name is Ulker and she is this super cool and beautiful Russian woman. Ulker has her PHD, speaks fluent English, and is just an all around cool woman. She is on call for us 24/7 and will even drive out to our site if we need medical attention (she drove 5 hrs during our site visits to give medical assistance to a girl). Most of our consultations are done over the phone so you really need to be in tune with your body to tell Ulker what is going on. She has also written a guidebook for us to use when we are sick and it gives us an idea of whether or not we need to give her a call. If we need medicine at our site PC gets it to us ASAP, which would probably be that same day or the next day depending on how far away we are from the office or the nearest airport. For those volunteers far from Ashgabat they will stick the medicine on the next plane flying to that region and the volunteer will have it within a few hours. Basically Ulker rocks at life!
We also have a PA, Kenny! Her name is Maya and she is Turkmen. She is brand new to the PA position, as of Dec 1st, so I don’t know much about her. She seems really cool and very nice though. She will be doing a lot to help Ulker when Ulker can’t make trips out to see people in the far regions.
If by chance I come down with something serious that cannot be taken care of here a few things could happen. 1) I would be put on temporary medical leave back to the states to get the care I need or 2) I would get shipped off to Thailand for a few weeks to get the care I need there. They only send you out T-Stan though if you are seriously ill and need like an operation. While Thailand sounds great and I will definitely go there sometime over the next 2 years I don’t intend on getting that sick.
So there you have answers to apparently the top 21 burning questions about Turkmenistan and my work here! Mad props to Cathy and Kenny and her parents for coming up with those stellar questions. If anyone has any other questions please feel free to leave a comment and I will do my best to answer them for you!